Capsule hotels: Sleeping cheap in Japan

It might be after a long day of walking around the city or a hike through the forest; maybe you've missed the last train of the night or simply just don't want to go home, yet. As long as a bed is available, you'll take it. Japan's capsule hotels have you covered.

Capsule hotels in Japan let you quite literally sleep in a capsule. There is a mattress, a blanket, a pillow, and that's pretty much it.

Short, bubbly history

The capsule hotel is a somewhat modern take on Japanese hospitality. The first capsule hotel opened in Osaka in 1979. They soon started to pop up in every major city in Japan, and became especially popular with salarymen who could miss the last train after a night of drinking or didn't want to return home.

As the economy soured, what was supposed to be a temporary place to sleep off a hangover became a semi-permanent solution for those who suddenly became homeless after the financial collapse 10 years ago.

With the low costs (beds can be found at about 2,000 yen per night, roughly €15 or just under $18), as well as included utilities, internet, and no up-front deposit, they are cheaper than rent in some Tokyo neighborhoods.

Extras not for free

Capsule hotels also include basic amenities such as nearby showers and bathrooms, as well as vending machines filled with snacks and drinks. Some of the more established capsule hotels will even have cologne or a public bath available at no extra charge.

Fortunately, at the first such hotel I stayed at, the bath was open all day and night. During the unbearably hot and humid Tokyo summers, there is no better feeling than knowing all that sticky sweat would melt away in the bath.

There may even be a restaurant, washing machine or massage parlors, but those parts of the stay are certainly not free. At one of the hotels I stayed at, they even offered sex toys for men. It was just 1,000 yen to rent one of the toys for the night. I was not willing to try that out, no matter how lonely I got or well cleaned they were.

Firm, just firm

After crawling into the tube room, it turns out there is more space than there appears. There is plenty of room to toss and turn, especially if one is short and limber. The mattresses inside do not leave too much to the imagination. They're so thin that it would almost be easy to think they weren't there at all. Certainly feels like it after a while.

There is no need to worry about anyone peeking in to see what is going on, there is a screen that you just have to pull down in order to get some privacy. No one will be able to see what is going on behind the screen, be it changing clothes or anything else that requires privacy.

And since there isn't a "finder's keeper's" culture in Japan, it is quite safe to leave one's belongings in the capsule, even though there isn't a safe in the capsule. I left my laptop, cameras, medication, even my passport and wallet in the capsule when I had to use the restroom or the bath. Yes, there was a locker nearby, but when nature calls it does not wait for you if you fumble with the locker key.

Just because there are six walls surrounding a person in the capsule, it does not mean it is completely soundproof. Many inexpensive capsules are made with a hard plastic. Snorers keep everyone up in such close quarters.

Most capsules also come with a TV inside, but don't expect over 9,000 channels to go along with the small blinking box off to the side. It will feature public broadcasting from Japan, plus a few more if you're lucky. But you're there to sleep, not enjoy the night. 

Great for a quick night, not forever though

Due to budget constraints during my lengthy stay, I found myself in capsule hotels many, many times. Some hostels around the country functioned very similarly to capsule hotels, especially with the privacy curtain and low costs.

But after a few nights in a cramped shell of a sleeping area, I became tired of sleeping in a place that felt like the walls kept closing in further and further.

If you want to keep it Japanese and not accidentally bang on the walls trying to roll over, book a ryokan, a traditional inn, complete with futon. They're usually about twice as expensive, but it certainly beats sleeping in a pill container.