The surreal, colorful photography of Erwin Blumenfeld
The German-Jewish photographer employed novel techniques, never shying away from experimentation. As a fashion photographer, he had his own art-inspired take on the female form, inspired by 20th-century avant-garde art.
American Vogue — with a twist
Erwin Blumenfeld was born in Berlin in 1897. Dadaism and Surrealism influenced his work, and he imbued his photography with elements from these artistic movements. He took the above photo taken through a lavatory glass. A new exhibition in Amsterdam at Foam, "Erwin Blumenfeld in Color," highlights the vibrant photos from his New York years and includes some of his vintage black-and-white prints.
Pat Blake for 'Vogue NY'
After trying to build his career in Berlin, Amsterdam, and Paris, the German-Jewish Blumenfeld fled Nazi-occupied France in 1941 for New York City, where Harpers Bazaar immediately employed him. In 1944 he began working with US Vogue. "Having access to the latest technological developments ... the world of color photography suddenly opened up to him," said Mirjam Kooiman, Foam Curator.
Experimenting in fashion photography
Blumenfeld used many photography techniques including double exposure, solarization (re-exposure), sandwich printing, veils and mirrors. He was also one of the first photographers to create fashion films. His work extended beyond the frame. In addition to his staple fashion shots, such as "The Same Face" for Vogue (above), he also shot beauty ads for the likes of L'Oreal and Elizabeth Arden.
All the 'Rage for Color' (1958)
The female body was a main interest for Erwin Blumenfeld: "Instead of treating the female body as a tailor’s dummy, [Blumenfeld] sought to bring out mystery and character in his photographs by letting his models embody an idea rather just being an object on display. He described his practice as 'smuggling art' into the domain of fashion," curator Kooiman explained.
Sought-after creativity
During his lifetime, Blumenfeld became one of the highest-paid, most sought-after fashion photographers in the world. He was known for his originality and endless imagination in capturing beautiful images with the bonus of gorgeous clothing mixed in. Despite his struggles and successes, his creativity continued to thrive — and it endures in his body of photographic work.